![]() The -3dB point, or cutoff, is around 47hz, which is basically “off” and can be adjusted up to around 4800hz. Since I will be using this mostly for experimental reverbs, I opted to add a hi-pass filter so I could filter out the bass as much as I wanted to, without having to use up filter channels. Like the Megalithia one, it has extra protection diodes that will keep the piezo from doing harm to the ICs in case you accidentally hit it or drop it. Thanks a lot □ It has two channels and runs off a single 9v battery. It’s based off the Megalithia op-amp piezo buffer and has design changes which the awesome folks at GroupDIY have patiently helped with. Most preamp recipies out there use FETs, but I opted for a little more complex, but in the end very rewarding op-amp ( operational amplifier) solution. In addition, you get all sorts of hum, buzz, noise and more dirt, all associated with low signal level.Īctually piezos can put out a lot of signal and hardly need any amplification, but they desperately need buffering and that can be done through various methods. If you don’t match this, you get a nasal, honky, quaky, thin sound, because the impedance mismatch will impose a hefty hi-pass filter on your signal. Perfect output impedance of devices hooked up to a line mixer is around 600Ω. Typical piezo impedance is 1MΩ, which is way too high. ![]() Since piezos have a very high impedance, they need to be buffered in order to bring them to an impedance compatible with line level. Unfortunately, just connecting them to your line mixer is going to give you exactly that. Piezos are little mics in disc form that are dirt cheap to buy (about 1€) and have a terrible reputation for sounding thin and noisy. I showed the DIY ilski PB-1 (“PiezoBanana-1”) preamp, which I will explain thoroughly in this post. In my post about cymbals reverb with the help of piezo mics, I explained the technique of using a piezo transducer (also called contact mic) in order to get beautiful, musical stereo reverbs from drum cymbals. ![]()
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